jueves, 5 de julio de 2007

Reciclando el Samsung ML-2010

Articulo sacado de Recharger Magazine muy buena revista para los que estan en el ambiente de reciclaje de cartuchos

Remanufacturing the Samsung ML-2010 Toner Cartridge

by Mike Josiah and the Technical Staff · Summit Technologies · November 1, 2005 - page(s): 14-34

First released in July 2005, the Samsung ML-2010 printers are based on a 20-ppm, 1200-by-600-dpi engine.

These cartridges are based on the new engine/cartridge design of the ML-1610 (Dell 1100). The cartridges have a huge handle that folds over the cartridge when installed. The good news here is that for at least the Samsung ML-2010 version, there is not a fuse or chip used to reset the machine. There is a fuse clip, however. It is possible that one of the soon-to-be-released Xerox or other Samsung cartridges will use one.

These cartridges do not have a drum cover, and come new with a piece of heavy paper taped around the cartridge. All new cartridges opened so far have shown some toner leakage on the drum that would have shown on any prints.

The replacement cartridge itself is rated for 3,000 pages at 5 percent coverage (ISO 19752). The starter cartridge is rated for 1,000 pages.

Printer/Cartridge

  • Samsung ML-2010/ML-2010D3
  • Samsung SCX-4321/Series SCX4521D3/SEE
  • Samsung SCX-4521/Series SCX4521D3/SEE
  • Samsung SP20MPP/Not released as of 9/19/2005
  • Samsung SP20MPU/Not released as of 9/19/2005
  • Xerox Phaser 3117/106R01159
  • Xerox Phaser 3122/106R01159

Possible other machines based on the ML-2010 engine (not confirmed, but likely).

Printer/Cartridge

  • Xerox WorkCentre PE-220/Not released as of 9/19/2005
  • Xerox CopyCentre PE-220/Not released as of 9/19/2005
Tools Needed

1) Toner-approved vacuum.
2) A small, common screwdriver.
3) A Phillips-head screwdriver.
4) Needle-nose pliers.
Supplies Needed

1) Samsung 2010 toner (85g).
2) Conductive grease.
3) Drum lubricating powder.

Remanufacturing Instructions

1) Place the cartridge on the work surface with the handle facing away from you. Remove the two screws on the left end cap. See Figure 1.


Figure 1

2) Gently pry off the left end cap. See Figure 2.


Figure 2

3) On the front edge of the cartridge there are two screws; remove them. See Figure 3.


Figure 3

4) Lift up the waste chamber and remove it from the cartridge. Make sure the tab on the right side slides out of the slot. If you try to lift the cover off without sliding the tab out, it will break off. See Figure 4.


Figure 4

5) Remove the two screws and wiper blade from the waste chamber. See Figures 5 and 6.


Figure 5


Figure 6

6) Clean out any remaining toner from the waste chamber.

7) Reinstall the wiper blade and two screws. Place the waste chamber aside. See Figure 7.


Figure 7

8) Remove the two screws from the right-side end cap. Carefully pry off the end cap. See Figure 8.


Figure 8

9) Remove the four gears and place aside. See Figure 9.


Figure 9

10) Slide the PCR away from the contact side, lift up and remove. See Figure 10.


Figure 10

Clean the PCR with your normal PCR cleaner.

WARNING: Do not clean the OEM PCR with alcohol, as this will remove the conductive coating from the roller. If the PCR is an aftermarket, follow the cleaning methods recommended by the manufacturer. If the PCR is an OEM, we recommend it be cleaned with your standard PCR cleaner.

11) Remove the OPC drum. See Figure 11.


Figure 11

12) Carefully pry out the fill plug. It fits tight and is easily damaged. Work a small jewelers screwdriver around the edge until the plug comes free. See Figure 12.


Figure 12

13) Clean out any remaining toner from the hopper.

14) Gently pry out the roller plate from the cartridge by pressing in on a tab located on the bottom of the cartridge. There is a spring that is in contact with the developer roller shaft. Move the tail of the spring up so that as the plate is lifted out, it will fall behind it. See Figures 13 and 14.


Figure 13


Figure 14

15) Remove the developer roller by lifting it out. See Figure 15.


Figure 15

16) Remove the two screws on the doctor blade. On the fill-plug side of the blade is the other tail of the spring. Lift it up while removing the doctor blade so it is not damaged. See Figures 16 and 17.


Figure 16


Figure 17

It is highly recommended that the doctor blade be cleaned. Failure to do so will cause streaking. Dampen a cotton swab with alcohol, and clean the blade. Be careful not to press too hard and damage the blade. If the blade has a heavy buildup of toner on it, clean it with acetone and then alcohol.

17) Clean the feed roller and any remaining toner from the hopper. See Figure 18.


Figure 18

18) Reinstall the doctor blade and two screws. Make sure the tail of the spring fits into the proper slot. See Figures 19 and 20.


Figure 19


Figure 20

19) Install the developer roller, keyed end to the gear side of the cartridge. See Figure 21.


Figure 21

20) Install the roller plate. Route the tail of the spring so that it sits on top of the plate and is in contact with the shaft of the developer roller. Lock the plate in place with the tab. See Figures 22 and 23.


Figure 22


Figure 23

21) Install the four gears as shown. See Figure 24.


Figure 24

22) Install the drum in place. See Figure 25.


Figure 25

23) Clean out the old conductive grease from the PCR contact hub and replace with new. A small amount of grease is fine, more is not better when it comes to conductive grease. See Figure 26.


Figure 26

24) Install the PCR by sliding it through the non-contact side, and into the contact hub. See Figure 27.


Figure 27

25) Fill the hopper with the appropriate toner. Replace the fill plug, check for leaks. See Figure 28.


Figure 28

26) Install the gear-side end cap and two screws. Make sure the PCR fits correctly in its holder and all the gears are aligned. See Figure 29.


Figure 29

27) Install the waste chamber by sliding the tab through the slot in the end cap. Rotate it down and install the two screws. See Figures 30 and 31.


Figure 30


Figure 31

28) Install the remaining end cap and two screws. Make sure the end cap sits flush with the rest of the cartridge. See Figures 32 and 33.


Figure 32


Figure 33

29) If your cartridge has a fuse, it needs to be replaced. Replace the fuse located on the right front of the cartridge (with the handle away from you). The ML-2010 does not use a fuse, and no other machines/cartridges are available yet (as of September 2005), but the slot for a fuse is there so it is possible that some of these cartridges will use one. See Figure 34.


Figure 34

Printing Test Pages

Demo Page

Press and hold the “CANCEL” button for two seconds until all the LEDs blink slowly. A demo page will print out.

Common Cartridge Problems

  • Repetitive Defect Chart
  • PCR 38mm
  • Developer Roller 44mm
  • OPC Drum 75mm

A Dirty or Bad Primary Charge Roller (PCR): Located inside the cartridge, this will show on the test print as vertical gray streaks down the page, as a gray background throughout the page, as ghosting where part of a previously printed area is repeated, or as a mark that repeats every 38mm.

Dirty PCR Connection: This will show as horizontal dark black bars across the page, or as shading throughout the page.

Scratched Drum: This is shown by a very thin, perfectly straight line that runs from the top to the bottom of the test page.

Chipped Drum: This will show as a dot or series of dots that repeat every 75mm.

Light-Damaged Drum: This will show up as a shaded area on the test print that should be white. Again, this will repeat every 75mm.

Bad Wiper Blade: This will show as either a gray line approximately 1/8-inch thick, or as shading across the entire page. In either case there will be a film of toner on the drum surface.

Bad Developer Roller: This will show up as light print or as a mark that repeats every 44mm.

Machine Error Codes:

These machines do not have a display panel. They use a series of LEDs to indicate a problem. There are two lights on the control panel, the ONLINE/ERROR light, and the TONER SAVE light. The TONER SAVE light is a green LED, and the ONLINE/ERROR LED is a two-color LED: red and green.

The user manual for these machines only has very basic information listed as follows:

If both lights are blinking, the machine has problems and needs service. (Don’t you just love these helpful notes?!)

If the ONLINE/ERROR light is on steady red, and the toner save is off, there could be a number of problems. There is either a paper jam, the front cover is open, the paper tray is empty, or the toner cartridge is empty.

The transfer roller, paper pickup roller, and the fuser are all rated for 50,000 pages.

Contact Mike Josiah and the technical staff of Summit Technologies at (631) 218-8376, fax (631)